Electric Range
Cooktop Not Heating
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**NOTICE**
Wiring Colors, Connectors, and Pins will vary by model/product code. Always be sure to download and use the service manual for your specific model.
For Test Mode procedures use this link and input your specific model: https://lgtestmodes.com/
If the problem is affecting ALL burners, check your incoming power to the unit at the terminal block.
You might also check the connections at the terminal block and make sure all the lugs are tight and not damaged.
Look at your individual schematic for any thermostats that may have opened affecting only the cook top.
If the problem is affecting ONE burner, then check the resistance and voltage. The resistance of a single element should be approximately 20~50 ohms. See service manual for specific resistance readings.
The voltage to a single element should read 240volts ac or 208volts ac. See the picture of a single element and where to measure below.
DUAL ELEMENT
E1 & 1A > 40 Ω ± 10%
E2 & 1A > 35 Ω ± 10%
The Induction Cooktop can create a strong magnetic field that can interfere with electronic devices.
The induction cooktop requires the use of cookware that is magnetic “not stainless” and the bottom must be flat.
These can include steel, enameled steel, and cast iron. Some cookware produces unusual noises when used with the induction cooktop. This is not a fault in the cooktop and will not impair the function of the cooktop or cookware in any way.
PERFECTLY FLAT BOTTOM
If the Pot or Pan isn’t flat the burner will not heat correctly, if at all.
MAGNETIC CONSTRUCTION
Check cookware for magnetic construction
If the unit does not lock to a frequency the cookware is not magnetic enough or the cookware being used is the incorrect size for that coil.
Examples from LCE30845 (COOKTOP) but the same principle.
If either fuse is found to be open test each coil for a short to ground. If one tests shorted replace the Coil, Inverter and power board associated with the shorted coil.
